Friday, February 27, 2009
Last Day- Man ngiy ñibbi
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Reverse Culture Shock Re-Orientation Session
Yesterday we had a session to prepare us to get ready to go back to the good ole USA. People have said to me that the reverse culture shock (the shock that “your” culture now suddenly seems foreign) is worse than the culture shock of arriving to the foreign land. The session was filled with questions like “Who will you call first when you get back? What do you wish you could import back to the US? What will your first meal be? Who will be our hardest goodbye? What will you miss the most? Who will you miss the most? What will have changed since you’ve been gone” and so on and so forth.
The session had some helpful aspects, and given that is was led by our program director, and attended by friends, wasn’t too painful. However, there were some responses that were rather surprising after 6 months in Senegal. For example one question was “What will you not miss?” One response was “backwardness.” It’s funny to see how people still don’t understand the idea of cultural relativity after six months in another country.
As I’ve been thinking about going home, somehow my thoughts always stop after that first BLT sandwich. I have sort of forgotten that I have a “real” life to go back to in NJ and back in Kalamazoo. I was talking to Alejandra and we both feel like life doesn’t really exist after those 24 hours back to the states. We wish there was a way to just take a break from Senegal for a little bit but then return back to our host families. Or more preferably, just take select people back to the states. And have them magically learn English.
Accomplishments
The Baobab Center is a non profit company that teaches languages lessons, can arrange for other classes and is basically a cultural center for orientation into Senegal and other parts of West Africa. By arriving in September there were few other people already here given the heat and the start of the school year. Having passed through a New Year here though I have met Rotary Scholars, American Military personnel, students from other schools and independent travelers. Several people have asked me as the anxiously stare at their empty calendars and days left “What is the most interesting thing you’ve done here? What is the not to miss activity?”
I’ve been standing in groups with other Kalamazoo students when asked this and I always feel rather sorry for the person who asked the question. With the answers we give them Senegal must seem like the most boring place in the world. We stand with our mouths hanging open looking at one another hoping that someone else will chime in first.
Senegal does not have a Great Wall, Eiffel Tower, Running of the Bulls, Large Scale Tomato Fights, Big Ben, Castles or impressive parliament buildings. The beaches are nice, but not something I would ever travel farther than Florida to search out. There have been many activities that I have enjoyed here. SCUBA diving was a really cool experience, as was seeing Mar Lodj and attending a lutte (Senegalese Wrestling Match). But the majority of what has made my time in senegal bearable/enjoyable/awesome has been random experiences, jokes with friends, ridiculous sights, relationships I’ve built and accomplishments. It’s hard to describe how one can search them out themselves. It is likely however that the kind of person who ends of coming here will find them though, because they certainly didn’t sign up for the glamour of coming to Senegal.
So here is my list of accomplishments and great moments in Senegal, which is as close to a Senegalese Great Wall as I got.
SCUBA diving off Ile de Goree
Watching that Goat face plant in the street
My host family telling me I chose good mangoes
Seeing a monkey riding on top of a Car Rapide
Alex making a “nyum,nyum,nyum” noise for the goats and sheep’s, thereby scaring both the children nearby and the sheep.
Marie dancing
Marie calling me “bébé Anna”
Marie giving me a pagne
Being allowed to wash dishes (apparently I was no longer just an imcompetant Toubab at this point)
Obama being elected
Senegalese people congratulating us for Obama being elected, and feeling good will towards America for once.
Everyone clapping for me at UCAD for speaking well (in French!) about what Obama’s election meant for America.
Taking a Car Rapide for the first time
Someone asking what the word “berger” meant and I was the first to respond (the first time I knew the answer to a random vocab question- it means shepard by the way)
Adja calling me sai-sai after I called Ahmed bu nuul. (Ahmed is my host brother and he was giving me crap and teasing me by calling me “xonx nopp” (red ears) so I responded by calling him “bu nuul” (of black) [side not: this is not a derogatory thing to say at all, Senegalese people call a spade a spade. The will frequently say things like “he’s light,” “she’s dark,” or “oh, your sister is prettier than you,” which is quite upsetting to the host students when showing pictures of their American families to their host family {sorry Kate, that wasn’t said to me, it was said to another student}] Anyway, Adja basically called me a rascal for saying that.
Watching the stars on the way back from Touba
Ndeye telling me how to properly hit Ahmed (ie, harder)
Everytime I walk in the door and Butterball runs up to me with outstretched arms
When Butterball wiped out holding that HUGE container of water
Helping to prepare Tabaski food
Singing songs on the back of the bus with Steve and the African students from our CESTI class
Writing a 4 page paper on Talibés in Senegal in French and getting a 14/20 on it (for those unfamiliar with the French grading system that is a pretty decent grade)
Taking the bus to my internship for the first time, having no clue what I was doing and still making it there on time- and all by myself
Hanging out with Senegalese and Americans in mostly French, some English and some Wolof, feeling comfortable and knowing what was going on
Braving a squat toilet at the bus station in Dakar (not a great moment, but an accomplishment)
Ndeye defending me to the family, that although I can’t speak Wolof I do understand it.
And of course- Butterball licking shoes.
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
Love/ Hate
Study abroad is a love/ hate relationship. Sometimes I love Senegal, sometimes I hate it. It all depends at what comes at you and when. If the littlest thing hits you on the wrong day it can just about crush you, but those days when you feel awful, and then you walk in the door and Butterball runs up to you to give you a hug and say your name makes it so much better. As the students here have discussed, it’s easier to like things a lot more when you can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I can get over not getting a piece of fruit each day when I know I am doing my own grocery shopping in a week. It was a much different feeling when I first got here, didn’t know where to buy a piece of fruit, how much it should cost, if I should bargain, whether or not it would make me sick, whether or not the vendor had change and by the end of it all if it was even worth it to buy the apple or not. A lot of the things on these two lists have a lot of aspects to them. For example, I love chocoleca- I love it, but I hate it’s competitor chocomousse which is always really runny. And in the end I hate them both when I have to eat them with bread everyday for 5 months straight. So yes, I like littering but hate the pollution. It’s a double edged sword.
Things I Love about Senegal
- Faux-tella (chocopain, chocoleca, chocomousse,- all peanut/chocolate spreads, imagine nutella but with peanut instead of hazelnut
- Not having to look for a trashcan (ie littering- it’s quite convenient)
- Awesome Mangoes for 50 cents (but sadly went out of season around October)
- Easily Purchased fruit
- Akon
- Cheap and beautiful fabrics
- Bargaining
- The many juices here- Bouye (Baobab), Dittah, Bissap
- Ngalax- A smoothie type substance of Baobab, peanut, banana and coconut
- The relaxed pace of life
- General friendliness of people
- My Wolof Teacher- Oumoul
- Amusing sheep/goats (hey Alejandra- remember when that goat? Hahah)
- Marie Gaye, Mustapha and Thany- My host family from St. Louis
- A break from Kalamazoo
- A unique study abroad experience, and generally more badass than Europe (I still love you all my Europe based friends!)
- Cheap snacks
- Sharing
- And of course- My Host family in Dakar (even when they piss me off every now and then)
Things I hate about Senegal
- Pollution
- The heat (written in September, now- the “cold” I am ill equipped for this slightly cool weather)
- Power outages
- Lack of privacy
- Always communicating in French and Wolof
- Ceebujen at least three times a week
- Only ever watching crappy Wolof soap operas on TV
- People trying to scam you
- No coffee shops
- Very expensive or bad granola bars
- Bad pens
- Having to share everything all the time.
- General lake of variety in food. (Fish or Rice; Cake or Death?)
Monday, February 23, 2009
List of the Day- Food
- Celery sticks with peanut butter
- PB and J sandwich
- Ruffles potato chips
- Mashed potatoes
- Peas
- Stir fried cashew pineapple and chicken
- Ham sandwich
- Cinnamon rolls
- Cereal
- Milk
- Strawberries
- Milkshakes/ Smoothies
- Pizza
- Hash browns
- Oreos
- Sugar cookies
- Banana bread
- Pot stickers
- Salad- walnut cherry vinaigrette cucumbers oooo.... or a citrus salad, or really any type of salad
- Real pasta
- Granola
- Tostitos and salsa and guacamole
- White grape salad
- Raspberries and berries in general
- Baby carrots (raw!)
- Chicken Breast
- Yoghurt/ Cucumber Tubule Pilaf
- Mac and cheese and broccoli
- BLTs
- Sorbet
- Orange Juice
- Donuts from Abmas Farm
- Cheese- esp mozarella with some tomato and oil and vinegar
- Stir fry/ Fried Rice from bamboo house or Rice Kitchen
- Brother's Pizza
- Fruit other than apples, bananas and oranges.
Monday, February 16, 2009
It’s the final countdown
There now remains only two more weeks in Senegal. I can’t believe that the end is so near. In very un-Senegalese fashion I have many things to get done before I leave. I have my ICRP report (10 pages in French), souvenir shopping, packing, and a trip to Toubab Diallo. Ok, actually that’s not that much at all, but having been in Senegal for the last 5 months means that I take things at an even more relaxed pace than usual. Everything seems like it can be put off to the next day, which is now no longer true.
Of course I have mixed feelings about going. I wish I could stay in Senegal longer, but I am done with living with a host family and eating Senegalese food all the time (there is a reason that Senegalese restaurants are not popular in the States.) Many of the things that are important to me here in Senegal are the relationships I have with people. It’s hard to ever imagine coming back to Senegal, mostly because at this point in my life I can’t imagine working in a foreign aid type post, which is close to the only type of job for foreigners in Senegal. Typical of most study abroad students, the majority of my friends are other foreigners. By the time I would have a chance to come back to Senegal, nearly all the people I would want to visit would be gone. I am thankful for the host family situation though. I absolutely my internationally known “husband,” 2 year old Butterball. I also love having a younger brother to tease and lightly abuse- Ahmed. I can’t imagine what kind of mess I’ll be when I say goodbye. I am excited to get back to a place where a BLT isn’t an epic search, I can cook whatever I would like, and wash and dry my clothes in just two hours, all by machine. Oh, and most importantly, make mashed potatoes the right way (they add SUGAR and powdered milk here, ewww.) Well, I concede that perhaps what is most important is that I get so see my family and friends again. For all the great relationships I’ve made here I still very much miss my family, and friends back in the states. I don’t know where the next two weeks will bring me exactly so, once again, sorry for the lack of updates, I’ll do what I can.
At the Zoo
A long overdue report of our trip to the zoo last Saturday.
We had the day free and decided to head to the famed Dakar Hann Zoo. Not famed for it’s wonderful animals of anything of the sort, but rather for what was described in Lonely Planet’s guide as “a place more likely to make children cry than smile.” One conversation between a student who had previously gone and his host brother went something like this:
Dan: Yeah, I just found it really depressing
Ibou: Well, were you drunk?
Dan: No, why would I be drunk at the zoo?
Ibou: Oh, well that’s your problem, you got to go when you’re drunk.
So a group of us headed there to see for ourselves. We went on a random day of the week, arriving around 1pm to find out that apparently even zoos take lunch breaks. We spent about an hour wandering around the surrounding park area (quite nice actually, and the greenest place I’ve seen in Dakar) waiting for the park to open back up. We must have been there on a school day because tons of children lined the path up and filled the playground next to the ticket area. As we approached the children started shouting “Toubab, Toubab!” I had the distinct feeling that we were the exhibit.
The entrance fee was only 350 CFA (about 80 cents) and it showed. The animals looked rather neglected and malnourished. We saw some buffalo, lions, camels, horses, turtles, and monkeys. Oh, and pigeons (I guess that’s a lesson in cultural relativity right there.) The only slightly remarkable moment was that we saw some of the zoo keepers bringing out a dead goat for the lions. We were so excited to get to watch them tear it to pieces for lunch. We were disappointed though when we the keepers butchered the goat. Some of the students who arrived after Tabaski found that in itself to be interesting but after seeing four goats slaughtered it really wasn’t that remarkable. After dividing the goat into about 6 pieces the caretaker threw the pieces through the bars of the cage to the waiting 6 lionesses. There was no ensuing feeding frenzy, rather each waited to get their own piece. In fact it was rather sad to see the animals reduced to so little energy.
I’m glad that I did go, just because I did find it interesting to see the animals, but it certainly holds nothing to others that I’ve been to before. I think I’ll leave the attempts at seeing big game and African animals to reserves, safaris and zoo’s in the states.